For unlike Constantinople, which was first Byzantine Orthodox and then Ottoman Muslim, Galata began life in 1261 as a virtually independent Genoese city-state -- making it both Catholic and Italian. Walled from the start, it was a self-contained town quite separate from its much bigger neighbor across the curving deep-water inlet of the Golden Horn. The Ottomans, who famously captured Constantinople in 1453, destroyed most of Galata's defenses and it became a suburb of the city rather than a separate entity. The area, populated largely by a cosmopolitan mix of Jews, Greeks and Armenians until the early part of the 20th century, has managed to retain a European feel to this very day, making it one of the most distinctive and attractive parts of the metropolis. Set on a steep hill running down to the Golden Horn, the best way to explore this compact neighborhood of narrow streets is on foot.

A good place to start your wanderings is the eastern end of the busy Atatürk/Unkapanı Bridge, where the wonderful Azapkapı Mosque squeezes up against the retaining wall of the bridge and the waters of the Golden Horn. Completed in 1578, this is probably the least visited work of that doyen of Ottoman architects, Mimar Sinan. Conforming to the typical Ottoman dome on a rectangle plan, it is unusual in that the minaret is freestanding and is only connected to the main body of the mosque by an arch. When exiting the grounds of the mosque it's worth lingering to admire the ornate curves of the Baroque marble fountain built to honor the mother of Sultan Mahmut I, dating to 1733. Now head east along the main street running parallel to, but behind, the Golden Horn, before taking a right and cutting right down to the waterfront. The view to the south from here, past the motley selection of moored boats, across the waters of the Golden Horn to the domes and minarets of Sultanahmet, is superb. Tucked away in the run-down backstreets behind the waterfront are ships chandlers selling everything from lengths of mooring chain and anchors to rope and life buoys, and a couple of impressive but very run-down Ottoman-era buildings -- the Galata Bedesten and the Han of Rüstem Paşa. Back down on the waterfront a few cheap and cheerful restaurants announce themselves by the acrid smell of fresh fish grilling on charcoal barbeques.

When you reach the northern exit of the bustling Galata Bridge, take a sharp left and head north. A couple of hundred meters up on the left, on Meydanı Perçimel Sokak, is the fascinating Jewish Museum, housed, appropriately, in the old Zülfaris synagogue. The Ottomans offered refuge to Jews fleeing persecution in Christian Europe and many of them eventually made their way to İstanbul, settling in areas like Galata, where they prospered. The museum's most impressive exhibits are the archive photographs and accompanying storyboards tracing the close relationship forged between the Turks and Jews over the centuries. Continue north on Karaköy Caddesi to Bankalar Caddesi. On the corner of these two streets is the glorious Minerva Han. In the 19th century this was the Greek Bank of Athens. Recently restored, this fine building is now an annex of Sabancı University, its meticulously renovated curved beige facade enlivened by panels of pale blue tiles and a pair of neoclassical stone cherubs holding baskets of fruit aloft. Head west down Bankalar Caddesi for the little-visited but very impressive Ottoman Bank Museum, housed in an imposing neoclassical building which was once the headquarters of the famous Ottoman Bank. The museum traces the history of banking in the Ottoman and republican eras, but look out also for the numerous temporary exhibitions hosted here. Continuing west, Bankalar becomes Voyvoda Caddesi. Here, on the right, is one of İstanbul's most unusual sights, the sinuous Art Nouveau curves of the Kamondo steps. Paid for by the wealthy local Jewish Kamondo family, the twin stairs were immortalized in a striking 1960s black and white photograph by the eminent French photographer Henri Cartier-Bresson.

In the narrow streets south and west of Voyvoda Caddesi, on Galata Mahkemesi Sokak, is the Arap Camii (Arab Mosque). This striking building, dominated by a big, square tower, was originally the largest church in this Genoese settlement. It became a mosque in the early years of the 16th century to serve the needs of a new wave of immigrants to Galata, the Moors expelled from Spain (hence the name Arap Camii). Walk back onto Voyvoda Caddesi, then up (northeast) to another church, that of St. Peter and St. Paul. Although first built in the 15th century, the present structure of this Dominican Catholic church goes back only to 1841, when it was rebuilt to a design by the Fossati brothers, the architects behind the major restoration work on the Aya Sofya. A short way up from here, on Galata Kulesi Sokak, is the British Prison, dating back to Ottoman times when foreign powers were given the right to try, sentence and imprison their nationals under their own, rather than Ottoman, laws. The current building, which dates from 1904, now houses a cafe-restaurant, the Galata House.

A short distance away and yet further uphill is the district's defining structure -- the Galata Tower. Visitors to the city have been drinking and eating in the (overpriced) cafe-restaurant at the top of the 61-meter tower for many years now -- long before the craze for rooftop bars and restaurants which has swept İstanbul in recent years. Built in 1349, the tower was originally called the Tower of Christ and formed part of the defenses of the upper part of the walled town of Galata. Later on it served as a prison and a fire lookout. It's well worth the admission fee for the superb views, particularly across the Golden Horn to Eminönü, Sultanahmet and Süleymaniye. The area at the foot of the tower is now a pleasant square, with benches to sit on and people watch and admire the fine 19th-century buildings roundabout.

As you head west to turn sharply up and north onto bustling Galip Dede Caddesi, it's strange to think that beneath your feet is one of the world's first undergrounds, the 19th century funicular railway carrying passengers from its entrance down by the Galata Bridge to its exit at the southern end of İstiklal Caddesi. Galip Dede Caddesi is now home to a rash of alternative-style clothes shops and many of İstanbul's best music shops, piled high with everything from imported American electric guitars to locally made cymbals, as well as traditional instruments like the saz and bağlama. The street is also home to the Galata Mevlevihanesi, once a tekke (monastery) for dervishes (members) of the Mevelevi order. Built in the 15th century the tekke, now a museum, is currently undergoing restoration -- but should be open soon. The order was founded in Konya by Mevlana Muhammed Jelaluddin Rumi back in the 13th century. Mevlana and his students believed that union with God could be achieved through meditation, dance and music -- hence the "whirling" ceremonies members of this order engage in. Many of the musical instruments used in the sema, or whirling ceremony, are on show in the museum.

From the Galata Mevlevihanesi it's just a few meters stroll onto one of the world's busiest streets, İstiklal Caddesi, and the end of your walk up and through İstanbul's Italian connection, Galata.


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Where to stay
Budget: World House Hostel, Galip Dede Cad. 85 Tel.: 0 (212) 293 5520, www.worldhouseistanbul.com. Dormitory rooms YTL 20, clean and friendly.

Mid-range: Galata Residence, Bankalar Cad, Hacı Ali Sok 27, Galata Tel.: 0 (212) 292 4841, www.galataresidence.com. Beautifully restored late 19th-century building, once belonging to the wealthy local Jewish Kamondo family, with seven two-bed apartments from YTL 150.

Expensive: Anemon Galata, Büyükhendek Cad 11, Tel.: 0 (212) 293 2343, www.anemonhotels.com. Sumptuous rooms in a rebuilt 19th-century townhouse near the Galata Tower. YTL 240 for a double.


Where to eat
Galata House Cafe, Galata Kulesi Sok 61 Tel.: 0 (212) 245 1861. Tuesday-Sunday noon-midnight. A cafe housed in the former British Prison, serving good coffee, homemade börek, cakes and jams. Full meals are available (mains YTL 15-20) including both Turkish and Georgian cuisine.

Galata Konak, Hacı Ali Sok 2 Tel.: 0 (212) 252 5346. Daily 9 a.m.-9 p.m. Just down from the Galata Tower, this stylish cafe, set in a lovingly restored old building, dishes up delicious lattes (with amaretto biscuits) and a range of tempting cakes and deserts.

Güney, Kuledibi Şah Kapısı 6, opposite Galata Tower Tel.: 0 (212) 249 0393. Monday-Saturday 7 a.m.-10 p.m. Once a workers' favorite, it has lost something of its character since the square was gentrified, but remains excellent value with pide for YTL 5 and generous portions of sulu yemek (stews) for the same price.


Guides
"Strolling through Istanbul" by Boyd and Freely, "Time Out İstanbul," "Lonely Planet İstanbul" and "Rough Guide to Turkey."